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Consigli, Prodotti, Prodotti Bio

Avvicinarsi al mondo eco bio e della cosmesi naturale.

Da appassionata di beauty ritengo che sia importante acquistare in modo consapevole imparando a conoscere le composizioni dei prodotti, per questo volevo condividere con voi alcune informazioni per fare un po’ di chiarezza sul tema.
Io per prima prediligo, da ormai qualche anno, prodotti certificati bio o con un inci accettabile, tuttavia può capitare di utilizzare anche altri tipi di prodotti, senza estremizzazioni!
Poi, ovviamente, ognuno di noi è libero di acquistare ciò che crede, l’importante è informarsi.

Al riguardo ho fatto una ricerca, per fornirvi alcune informazioni affinché siate liberi di decidere e scegliere cosa comperare e cosa fa al caso vostro.
Occorre sapere che i cosmetici biologici sono quelli naturali a base vegetale e rispettosi dell’ambiente (senza sostanze inquinanti); tuttavia per la stabilità di un prodotto sono necessarie alcune sostanze di sintesi come gli emulsionanti, tensioattivi e conservanti.
Quindi difficilmente troveremo in commercio prodotti, a parte gli oli e poco altro, interamente vegetali, perché anche i prodotti bio necessitano di sostanze di sintesi.
Tuttavia scegliere un cosmetico bio certificato ci rassicura sul fatto che conterrà prodotti agricoli e zootecnici derivati da agricoltura biologica certificata, non avrà sostanze dannose, tossiche o allergizzanti; non saranno stati impiegati OGM e non si avrà fatto ricorso alla sperimentazione sugli animali; infine non saranno state impiegate radiazioni ionizzanti.

Nei prodotti cosmetici, oltre ai vari principi attivi, ci possono essere degli ingredienti aventi lo scopo di preservarlo nel tempo e renderlo più gradevole.
Come si può verificare cosa contiene un prodotto?
I componenti di un cosmetico li troviamo nell’ inci (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients), a prima vista sembra una lista di cose incomprensibili, l’unico sistema per comprendere se il nostro prodotto è ecosostenibile è cercare gli ingredienti nel biodizionario (inserendo il nome dell’ingrediente nel sito a cui verranno associati dei pallini : con due pallini verdi il prodotto è promosso; con un pallino verde è accettabile;  mentre con un pallino giallo è dubbio; con un pallino rosso si sconsiglia l’utilizzo; con due pallini rossi è inaccettabile). Si tratta di una sorta di guida base per capire un pò a cosa siamo davanti quando prendiamo dallo scaffale un prodotto cosmetico!

Dovete considerare che il primo ingrediente sulla lista è quello con un contenuto maggiore, per gli altri, via via, ci sono concentrazioni minori!!

Quest’attività di ricerca può essere evitata se sul prodotto c’è la presenza del marchio dell’ente certificatore, che garantisce la correttezza del processo produttivo e il rispetto di nome severe per la scelta e l’utilizzo degli ingredienti (in Italia ICEA = Certificazioni cosmetici biologici dei prodotti italiani; in Francia Ecocert; In Germania Bdih, in Inghilterra c’è la Soil Association, in Belgio opera la Bioforum).
I controlli sul processo produttivo e sulle sostanze ammesse sono rigidi ed è Cosmos (Cosmetics Organic Standard) che definisce lo standard unico europeo per le certificazioni dei prodotti cosmetici naturali.

Gli ingredienti che andrebbero evitati (anche se la legge non ne vieta l’impiego ma ne limita l’utilizzo indicandone le concentrazioni massime consentite potrebbero tuttavia  essere fonti di allergie e intolleranze), a grandi linee, sono :

  • SILICONI : Generalmente, nell’inci il loro nome termina con –thicone, -one, -ane. Quelli che si possono trovare più frequentemente sono il dimethicone, l’amodimethicone, il cyclomethicone, il cyclopentasiloxane (soprattutto nel make up) e tutti quelli terminanti con–siloxane o –silanol. Sono composti a base di silicio, impiegati dalle aziende perché sono duttili, resistono alle alte temperature e donano piacevolezza alla texture. Sono sensibilizzanti, occlusivi, privi di odore/ colore, e mascherano le problematiche di pelle e capelli, i quali appaiono belli e sani ma in realtà è come se fossero avvolti in una patina di cellophane, peggiorandone l’aspetto non appena se ne sospende l’ impiego.
  • PETROLATI : si riconoscono nell’inci con questi nomi: Mineral Oil, Paraffinum Liquidum, Petrolatum, Propylene glycol, Isopropyl, Vaselina, Cera microcristallina. Conosciuto anche come vaselina o gel di petrolio, è una gelatina ottenuta dal petrolio per raffinazione utilizzata dalle aziende visto il suo costo irrisorio e l’alta resa a lungo termine visto che non irrancidisce. I petrolati sono utilizzati come sostanze solventi, emollienti, veicolanti o funzionali, danno una sensazione di levigatezza alla pelle e creano una barriera tra l’ambiente esterno e la pelle.
  • PARABENI: Si dividono in quattro forme: Ethyl, Methyl, Buthyl e Prophyl . Quindi nell’inci possiamo trovare: methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, isobutylparaben, butylparaben, e benzylparaben, isobutylparaben, isopropylparaben e benzylparaben.
    I parabeni sono utilizzati come conservanti e antimicrobici, quando penetrano nella pelle e nei tessuti corporei vi permangono intatti all’interno.
  • SLS : Sodium Laureth Sulfate o Sodium Lauryl Sulphate, sono degli emulsionanti, detergenti, schiumogeni, solubilizzanti. La cui funzione è quella di abbassare la tensione superficiale dell’ acqua permettendo che la cute venga bagnata, rimuovendo sporco e parte grassa che verranno emulsionati e rimossi con il risciacquo.
  • PEG : si riconoscono nell’INCI con il nome PEG. Sono composti sintetici, di derivazione petrolifera (quindi molto inquinanti), vengono inseriti nei cosmetici emulsionanti per mescolare l’acqua con le sostanze grasse/oleose che in natura non legano.

Non si tratta di una guida completa, ma di spunti di riflessione per acquistare consapevolmente facendo attenzione a leggere gli inci dei prodotti, non fidandoci solo delle promesse fatte da creme costose e miracolose prodigiose, soprattutto nel caso di persone con intolleranze, allergie e con la cute facilmente irritabile.

Voi cosa ne pensate? Siete attente agli ingredienti dei cosmetici che acquistate?
Io tendenzialmente si, eccetto qualche rara eccezione dovuta all’acquisto di palette di ombretti e rossetti per i quali chiudo un occhio e mi lascio tentare da finish, texture e colori particolari!

Alla prossima

 

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